Tinglayan

I was there, November 3-6, 2012.

The terraces of Tinglayan, Kalinga is structurally different from that of Banaue. They build walls made of stones instead of mud. (Photo: Atty. Romeo Bautista) 

Deep in heart of the Cordilleras of Luzon lies the Municipality of Tinglayan in the Province of Kalinga. The town proper of Tinglayan is in itself a wonder. How can one establish a town on a land of steep slopes, crevices and ravines? Plus, the town's population is a conglomeration of eight (8) Kalinga tribes who are not always in peaceful terms with each other.

We were lucky to have arrived at Tinglayan during the engagement party of Mayor Fernando Abay's daughter. We witnessed a different way of serving food to the guests. Accompanied by the festive beating of the gangsa (a smooth-surfaced gong), plated food began to flow out from the kitchen passing from one guest to another. The music did not stop until the last guest held a plate of rice and boiled pork seasoned only with salt. The Mayor, probably noticing my amazement, explained that his tribe do this when there is not enough food for everyone. That is, there were more visitors than they expected. The boiled pork will be divided equally to as many plates as there are guests. No matter how small the cuts of meat will be, it doesn't matter, for as long as everybody is given a share. After the feast, we spent the night drinking and singing.

We spent three days in the rugged mountains of Tinglayan, Kalinga. Whang-Od, the last surviving Butbut Tribe tattoo artist carved a centipede on my back. We slept at the house of Tic-e Pan-oy of the Butbut Tribe of Buscalan.

Whang-Od is the last tattoo artist of the Buscalan tribe in Tinglayan, Kalinga. While nobody can say for certain how old she is, but she claimed to be in her 90's. I took the opportunity of having having myself tattooed. The tattoo is more of cultural value than aesthetic. (Photo: Atty. Romeo Bautista)   

Whang-Od, a native tattoo artist, is hereself tattooed all over. She attempted to pass the art to her grand daughter. But the young girl's art seemed too novice. (Photo: Atty. Romeo Bautista)

From the Poblacion in Tinglayan to Buscalan took us around two hours of walking. There is, of course, a shorter way, but our tour guide wanted us to experience everything the mountains have to offer. At times, the walk along steep ravines becomes so slippery and totally dangerous especially to tired tourists.

 (Photo: Atty. Romeo Bautista)

And aha! We rode on the top of the bus on our way to Tabuk City. The bus negotiated sharp curves besides deep ravines and steep cliffs. "Check your breaks please!" I shouted all the way!

Foreigners and locals would want to stay on top of the Jitney. The view is exhilarating up there. 

This is Tic-e Pan-oy. She accepts transients at her home in Buscalan. The Buscalan village is surrounded by numerous rice terraces.  (Photo: Atty. Romeo Bautista)

Bontoc

I was there, April 6, 2013. 

Together with my colleagues at Mabalacat City College, I went to Bontoc, Mountain Province to watch the Lang-ay Festival. And lo, I saw the most beautiful festival in the Philippines. Unlike many festivals in the country where the dances and costumes are highly infused with Western elements, Lang-ay is a festival that showcases native dances with almost authentic ethnic moves and choreography. April is the best time to go to Bontoc. 

Bontoc women showcasing their heirloom necklaces. The whole festival present a core of Filipino heritage which escaped Western colonization. (Photo: Irene Christy M. Bacolod)

The old and young men danced in the streets of Bontoc showing off their authentic dances and clothings. My heart bled for my own lost culture. Unlike theirs, my ethnic roots and culture are beyond recovery.  (Photo: Irene Christy M. Bacolod)

These young boys burst into dance moves almost instantly at the beat of the drums. With these children, Bontoc traditions may remain alive for a long time. (Photo: Irene Christy M. Bacolod)

This scene is moving. I wanted to cry seeing these boys keeping their traditions alive. I realized that I lost my ethnic culture in exchange for a western civilization brought by the Spaniards. (Photo: Irene Christy M. Bacolod)

During my first trip to Bontoc, we saw these foreigners sitting on top of the jitney going to Batad. Although dangerous, the view is exhilarating up there. (Atty. Romeo Bautista)   

Maligcong Rice Terraces in Bontoc awaiting planting. Even without the "greenery" of the palay, the terraces are really breathtaking, indeed, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Atty. Romeo Bautista)